Visually dividing the surface into a grid comes pretty naturally when there’s so many markers you can draw lines between. It’s quite orangey and heavy but it works ok with the purple here. Some Knights exist outside of the structure of the Knightly Households, and are known as Freeblades – whether because they’re too independent for the life of service, because their house was destroyed, because they failed to uphold their code of honour and now seek redemption, or for many other reasons. If you haven’t tried the Liquitex Inks you really should; they are extremely inexpensive and do an incredible job of coating thanks to a massive quantity of pigments. Airbrush + thin masking tape. If you’re looking to read more about Imperial Knights, consider the following books: You can read about playing Knights in our Start Competing: Imperial Knights article here. The cooler tones of Heavy Metal contrast nicely with the warm tones from the oil wash to really make the legs pop. 40k featured hobby How to Paint Everything imperial knights knights Painting Warhammer 40k, ©  2020 Goonhammer. I lightly airbrushed a random medium grey over the bottom third of the legs and lower leg armor plates, then hit the same areas with a bit of Exhaust Black weathering pigments, before sealing the model up and doing the final matte varnish coat. You’ll want to work all of those out of the sheets, so the water runs through them clear and odor free. What’s great about this is you can switch up those paints to create different effects. I intentionally drybrushed with an airbrush paint for the middle layer because I find that the technique provides something between a glaze and an edge highlight and provides a very smooth transition. You can get the same iridescent effect with other colors by using other paints in the Citadel Technical paint line, specifically the gemstone colors: Spiritstone Red and Soulstone Blue. Let these fully dry before continuing. I washed the entire model with AP Dark Tone, drybrushed with VMA Dark Steel, and then applied another layer of AP Dark Tone. This covers pretty well over white, so don’t worry about that. Then finish it off with a little bit of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade. What do any of these look like? To go the extra mile, stipple on a little bit of Rhinox Hide on the yellow, and then wash it with Agrax Earthshade. Which is a blessing when an entire Imperial Knight army is no more than a handful of models (though strictly speaking, each Knight model is an entire handful by itself). First run those dryer sheets under some water and scrub them down with more dryer sheets. If you're familiar with Tale of Painters' tutorials then you may have noticed this is a different format to what I usually post. Finally I drybrushed with a layer of VGC Chainmail. Phthalocyanine Blue (Green Shade) mixed with white to gradually shade the lenses from white to blue. It starts with Scale 75 Viking Gold, then I carefully wash around all the rivets and any recesses with Druchii Violet, then carefully go over everything but the washed areas with a few thin coats of Scale 75 Dwarven Gold.